Beaubleu La Pièce No. 1: A Bold French Watch with Circular Hands

Photo by Tima Miroshnichenko on Pexels
Design Roots and Independent Spirit
Beaubleu, a Paris‑based independent founded in 2017 by designer Nicolas Ducoudert, continues the French tradition of daring design. While Switzerland dominates mechanical watchmaking, French creators have long distinguished themselves through inventive aesthetics and a willingness to break conventions. Beaubleu’s signature feature—circular hands that float around the dial—embodies this avant‑garde approach, and the La Pièce collection elevates it further through a partnership with the historic Monnaie de Paris.
The Case: Subtle Proportions with a Modern Touch
The La Pièce No. 1 measures 39 mm in diameter, with a 45 mm lug‑to‑lug spread and a thickness of 10.2 mm, making it adaptable to many wrist sizes. Crafted from 316L stainless steel, the case blends brushed and polished finishes and is capped by a double‑domed sapphire crystal. A rounded bezel frames the intricate dial, while short, sculpted lugs flow seamlessly into the bracelet, lending a slightly vintage feel to an otherwise contemporary silhouette.
A discreet crown positioned at three o’clock preserves the clean lines of the case and keeps the side profile sleek. The watch is water‑resistant to 50 metres, suitable for everyday wear within its dress‑watch orientation.
Dial: Artistry Meets Numismatics
The dial is the centerpiece of the piece, created in collaboration with the Monnaie de Paris using traditional coin‑striking methods. Overlapping off‑centre circles evoke the movement of light across the day, and the finely powdered surface offers a paper‑like texture. Printed Roman numerals generate a subtle moiré effect that deepens as the light shifts.
In the Champagne version, a warm cream background is paired with rose‑gold accents and concentric detailing around the edge, enhancing the vintage character. The composition gains a theatrical quality beneath the domed crystal, with the circular motifs producing an almost hypnotic visual experience.
Unconventional Circular Hands
True to Beaubleu’s identity, the watch features two overlapping rings for hours and minutes, plus a smaller floating circle for seconds. These hands move independently, offering a novel way to read the time. While the display requires a brief adjustment period, the intent lies more in artistic expression than in straightforward legibility.
- Champagne (rose‑gold details)
- Moka (rich brown tones)
- Olive Green
- Graphite
- Empire Blue
- Burgundy
Each colourway imparts a distinct personality, with the Champagne version highlighted for its harmonious blend of texture and hue.
Movement: French Craftsmanship Under the Hood
Powering the watch is an automatic calibre from France Ébauches, a French movement manufacturer. The FE automatic provides a 46‑hour power reserve—adequate for daily wear though not extended weekend use. Though the movement itself is not the focal point, its presence in an exhibition caseback allows collectors to appreciate the mechanical heart beneath the decorative dial. Beaubleu backs the timepiece with a five‑year warranty, offering additional confidence when purchasing from a smaller independent brand.
Bracelet and Strap Choices
The Champagne model is equipped with a matching Milanese‑style mesh bracelet. The finely woven metal adds texture and conforms comfortably to the wrist, reinforcing the watch’s sculptural qualities while maintaining a sleek, uninterrupted metallic finish. This mesh strap accentuates the Parisian character, positioning the piece between a classic dress watch and contemporary jewellery.
For those preferring leather, Beaubleu offers alternatives that fit the standard 20 mm lug width, allowing easy strap swaps. However, the mesh bracelet remains the most cohesive choice for the Champagne version, enhancing its overall aesthetic.
Collectible Appeal and Availability
Beaubleu’s La Pièce No. 1 stands out for its blend of eccentric design and refined craftsmanship. The collaboration with the Monnaie de Paris adds genuine artisanal value to the innovative circular‑hand concept. Limited to 888 pieces per colourway and priced between £1,590 and £1,680 depending on the strap, the watch occupies a niche among independent dress watches. Its unconventional time display may not suit every palate, but for collectors who cherish originality, thoughtful design, and a touch of artistic daring, it represents a compelling addition.
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